Child s waist



No. s0s,|49. Patented July 26, 1398..

a. J. unus.

CHILDS WAIST.

(Application filed Nov. 16, 1897.)

(No Model.)

lNvENTuR:

rm: mums PEYERS co. PHQ'WJ-HTNO WASHINUYON a c rrnn 'rATEs GEoRGE J.BURNS, OF AYER, MASSACHUSETTS.

CFHILDS WAIST.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 608,149, dated July 26,1898. Application filed November 16, 1897. Serial No, 658,674.. (Nomodel.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE J BURNS, of Ayer, in the county of Middlesexand State of Massachusetts,have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Childrens Waists, of

improved garment which I shall now pro-.

ceed to describe and claim.

Of the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, Figurel is a view representing the outer side of a childs waist constructedaccording to my invention. Fig. 2 is a view indicating my improvedmethod of cutting the cloth for the body of the gar.- inent. Fig. 3 is asimilar view showing the old method of cutting. Fig. 4 represents thewaist in position on the wearer.

The same reference characters indicate the same parts in all thefigures.

Referring to the drawings, a designatesthe body portion orfoundation-piece of the garment, consisting, preferably, of a-singlethickness of cloth and out after the manner indicated in Fig. 2, whichwill presently be described.

h h designate two gores or triangular pieces of cloth inserted under thearmholes c and sewed along two edges to the main body portion a, and d ddesignate the shoulderstraps, which are sewed along their length to thebody portion Ct. The armholes c and the edges of .the garment are boundin the ordinary manner, and the usual facing or strengthening strips a aare provided for the buttonholes and buttons by means of which the waistis buttoned around the body of the wearer.

e edesignate the buttons by means of which the lower outer garment, suchas a skirt or trousers, is attached tothe waist, the said buttons beingfastened on various strips f g h, which are sewed to the garment andform and e.

part thereof. These strips are so arranged that substantially all of thestrain of the attached lower garments is borne from the shoulders of thewearer. The strips f ,1 start at the middle of the back or, the middleof the front of, the waist, depending upon whether the garment is to bebuttoned in front orbehind, and pass over the shoulder-strapsd to thefacing-strips a and (0 respectively. The two pairs of strips 9 g startat common points underneath the armholes c and pass diagonally upward inV fashion on either side of said armholes, their ends being sewed underneath the strips f f.

The strips 9, besides acting as supporters, serve to cover and reinforcethe seams where the gores b are sewed to the main body portion a. v

On the back or front and sides of the garment, at the three points wherethe lower ends of the strips f f and the strips 9 9 come together, aresewed diamond-shaped pieces of cloth 2' 2', these being the points Wherethe principal weight of the lower garments is supported. These piecesserve to cover the unfinished ends of the strips f and g, impart a neatappearance to the garment, and afford a strong foundation for attachingbuttons e The lower edges of the side pieces 71 are left free from thebody-piece Ct on account of the fullness of the garment at these points.The strips 72. are substantially yertioal and extend from the junctionof the strips f and g to the lower edge of the garment, each acting as asupport for one of the buttons 6. These strips may, however, be omitted,as they are used only on waists where support for nether garments isrequired at these points.

An inspection of Fig. 3, which represents the ordinary way ofcutting'the cloth for the body portion of a waist, and of Fig. 2, whichrepresents my improved method of cutting, will indicate at once thegreat saving of material incident to the latter method. The greatestwaste in cutting garments in the old way occurs in the armhole, sincethe remnants of cloth therefrom are notof suitable shape or size to beused as any part of the garment. It is ordinarily impossible by thismethod to get two waists from a piece of twenty-seveninch goods; but bymeans of my improved method this is easily accomplished. In the patternFig. 2 it is seen that the shoulderstraps are cut short or incomplete,the missin g portions being supplied from other pieces of goods, andthat the armholes are represented by narrow recesses 6 6 and slits 7 7,which are afterward spread apart for the insertion of the triangularpieces I). These latter pieces can be cut from the remnants occurring byreason of the angles formed between the end portions 2 of the base-lineand the middle portion 3 thereof.

The recesses 6 and slits 7 may be said to subdivide the body a into amiddle section 8 and two end sections 9 9, the upper ends of which areshoulder-strap bases 5 5. When the gores b b are inserted between theedges of the slits 7 7, they separate the upper portions of the endsections from the middle section, thereby depressing the lower edges 2 2of the end sections and forming full portions t 4 be low the gores,where the garment covers the wearers hips. Fig. 1 shows the base-line ofthe garment as turning upwardly at the ends; but when the garment islaid out perfectly flat this base becomes substantially a straight line.

In order to provide for the larger circumference of the childs bodybelow the waistline, it has heretofore been necessary either to lay ab0x-plait under the arms, leaving it free below the waistline, or to cuta gash over the hips below the waist-line or to make the waist out ofseparate pieces of cloth cut for the seam under the arm at such an angleas will give the required fit, all of which methods are disadvantageouseither 011 account of appearance, fit, or expense of manufacture.

It will be seen that my improved garment combines neatness of appearanceand superior fitting qualities with strength, economy of material, andcheapness of manufacture.

Each of the strips f, it will be observed, passes as a continuous bandover the shoulder, from the diamond at one end to the buttonhole-stripor button-strip at the other, and therefore directly takes the strain ofthe lower clothing. In garments of this kind as heretofore constructedthe shoulder strap has usually been the weakest part. In creasedstrength is given by this continuous strip, and

the absence of unnecessary seams gives added comfort. It will further beobserved that the particular manner in which the strips f and g are.arranged tends to equalize the strain from the lower clothing. Supposingequal weights or strains to be imposed upon the garment at the threediamonds and at the button and buttonhole-reinforcing strips, theresultant strain will be downwardly from the points of junction of thestrips f and g and in a direction at right angles to the base-linethatis, the pull will be directly downward from the shoulders and not alateral pull, as would be the case were the weight wholly upon the stripf or the strip g alone.

I claim 1. The herein-described waist, the same comprising the bodyportion having shoulderstrap bases 5 each side of each armhole andterminating short of each other above the armhole, gore-pieces securedto the body portion under the armholes, and reinforcingstrips extendingdown each side of the armhole and extending across the space between theends of the shoulder-strap bases 5 and connecting said bases.

2. The herein-described waist, the same comprising a main foundationpiece, the lower edge of which is continuous and longer than thewaist-encircling portion and having a shoulder extension arising fromeach side, the under-arm pieces being gores secured to the body portionand having reinforcingstrips stitched to the shoulder extensions andforming the upper sides of the armholes, the said reinforcing-stripsconstituting a part of the garment, supporting-strips arranged in linesextending from the shoulder-covering portions of the garment, and piecesarranged at the sides and back or front of the garment and covering theends of certain of said strips.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification, in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses, this 12th day of November, A. D.1897.

GEORGE J. BURNS.

\Vitnesses:

AVIS A. BURNS, O. F. BROWN.

